Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement

Nick Draper, David Giles, Volker Schöffl, Franz Konstantin Fuss, Phillip Watts, Peter Wolf, Jiří Baláš, Vanesa Espana-Romero, Gina Blunt Gonzalez, Simon Fryer, Maurizio Fanchini, Laurent Vigouroux, Ludovic Seifert, Lars Donath, Manuel Spoerri, Kelios Bonetti, Kevin Phillips, Urs Stöcker, Felix Bourassa-Moreau, Inmaculada GarridoScott Drum, Stuart Beekmeyer, Jean Luc Ziltener, Nicola Taylor, Ina Beeretz, Franziska Mally, Arif Mithat Amca, Caroline Linhart, Edgardo Abreu

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

188 Scopus citations

Abstract

The research base for rock climbing has expanded substantially in the past three decades as worldwide interest in the sport has grown. An important trigger for the increasing research attention has been the transition of the sport to a competitive as well as recreational activity and the potential inclusion of sport climbing in the Olympic schedule. The International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) was formed in 2011 to bring together climbers, coaches and researchers to share knowledge and promote collaboration. This position statement was developed during and after the 2nd IRCRA Congress which was held in Pontresina, in September 2014. The aim of the position statement is to bring greater uniformity to the descriptive and statistical methods used in reporting rock climbing research findings. To date there is a wide variation in the information provided by researchers regarding the climbers’ characteristics and also in the approaches employed to convert from climbing grading scales to a numeric scale suitable for statistical analysis. Our paper presents details of recommended standards of reporting that should be used for reporting climber characteristics and provides a universal scale for the conversion of climbing grades to a number system for statistical analysis.

Original languageEnglish (US)
Pages (from-to)88-94
Number of pages7
JournalSports Technology
Volume8
Issue number3-4
DOIs
StatePublished - Oct 2 2015
Externally publishedYes

Keywords

  • ability grouping
  • climbing grade
  • comparative table
  • rock climbing
  • statistics

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Human Factors and Ergonomics
  • Orthopedics and Sports Medicine
  • Physical Therapy, Sports Therapy and Rehabilitation
  • Engineering (miscellaneous)

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